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Greater Copenhagen

The conurbation of Copenhagen consists of several municipalities. After Copenhagen Municipality, the second largest is Frederiksberg Municipality which is an enclave inside Copenhagen Municipality. Both are contained in the larger Capital Region of Denmark, containing most of the Copenhagen metropolitan area.

Previously, the areas of Frederiksberg, Gentofte and Copenhagen municipalities have been used to define the city of Copenhagen. This definition is now obsolete. To meet statistical needs upon the latest municipal reform, which took place in the beginning of 2007, a definitory concept of Danish lands (Danish: Landsdele) have been introduced.. A land is basically a geographical and statistical definition, and the area is not considered to be an administrative unit. The land of Copenhagen City includes the municipalities of Copenhagen, Dragør, Frederiksberg and Tårnby, with a total population of 667,228 in the beginning of 2009.

Copenhagen and Frederiksberg were two of the three last Danish municipalities not belonging to a county. On the 1st of January 2007, the municipalities lost their county privileges and became part of Copenhagen Capital Region.

Architecture

The oldest section of Copenhagen s inner city is often referred to as "Middelalderbyen" (The Medieval  City). However, the most distinctive district of Copenhagen is Frederiksstaden developed during the reign of Frederick V. It has Amalienborg Palace at its centre and is dominated by the dome of the Marble Church as well as a number of elegant 18th century mansions. Also part of the old inner city of Copenhagen is the small island of Slotsholmen  with Christiansborg Palace and Christianshavn. Around the historical city centre lies a band of congenial residential bouroughs (Vesterbro, Inner Nørrebro, Inner Østerbro) dating mainly from late 19th century. They were built outside the old ramparts of the city when the city was finally allowed to expand beyond this barrier.

Sometimes referred to as "the City of Spires", Copenhagen is known for its horizontal skyline, only broken by spires at churches and castles. Most characteristic is the baroque spire of Church of Our Saviour with its spiralling and narrowing external stairs that visitors can climb to the very top of the spire. Other important spires are those of Christiansborg Palace, the City Hall and the former Church of St. Nikolaj that now houses a modern art venue. A bit lower are the renaissance spires of Rosenborg Castle and the "dragon spire" of Christian IV s former stock exchange, so named because it is shaped as the tails of four dragons twined together.

Recent years have seen a tremendous boom in modern architecture in Copenhagen both when it comes to Danish architecture and works by international architects. For a few hundred years, virtually no foreign architects had worked in Copenhagen but since the turn of the millennium the city and its immediate sourroundings have seen buildings and projects from international star architects. In the same time, a number of Danish architects have achieved great success both in Copenhagen and abroad. Buildings in Copenhagen have won RIBA European Awards four years in a row ("Sampension" in 2005, "Kilen" in 2006, "Tietgenkollegiet" in 2007 and the Royal Playhouse in 2008). At the 2008 World Architecture Festival in Barcelona, Bjarke Ingels Group won an award for the World s Best Residential Building 2008 for a house in Ørestad. The Forum AID Award for Best building in Scandinavia went to Copenhagen buildings both in 2006 and 2008. In 2008 British design magazine Monocle named Copenhagen the World s best design city 2008.

The boom in urban development and modern architecture means that the above mentioned horizontal skyline has seen some changes. A political majority has decided to keep the historical centre free of highrises. But several areas will see or have already seen massive urban development. Ørestad is the area that until now has seen most of the development. Located near Copenhagen Airport, it currently boasts one of the largest malls in Scandinavia and a variety of office and residential buildings as well as an IT University and a high school. The two largest hotels in Scandinavia are currently under construction (ultimo 2008).

An ambitious regeneration project will create a new Carlsberg District at the historical premises of the Carlsberg Breweries that has terminated the production of beer in Copenhagen and moved it to Fredericia. The district will have a total of nine highrises and seeks to mix the old industrial buildings with modern architecture to create a dense, maze-like quarter with a focus on sustainability and an active urban life. A third major area of urban development also with a focus on sustanibility is Nordhavn. The Copenhagen tradition with urban development on artificial islands that was initiated with Christian IV s construction of Christianshavn has recently been continued with the creation of Havneholmen as well as a canal district at Sluseholmen  in the South Harbour. A district in Copenhagen with a very different take on modern architecture is that of Christiania whose many creative and idiosyncratic buildings are exponents of an "architecture without architects".

Visit Copenhagen Concert Hall

The new Copenhagen Concert Hall opened in January 2009. It is designed by Jean Nouvel and has four halls with the main auditorium  seating 1800 people. It serves as the home of the Danish National Symphony Orchestra and along with the Walt Disney Concert Hall in Los Angeles the most expensive concert hall ever built.  Another important venue for classical music is the Tivoli Concert Hall located in the historical Tivoli Gardens. The Copenhagen Opera House (in Danish usually called Operaen) that opened in 2005 and is designed by Henning Larsen, is the national opera house of Denmark and among the most modern opera houses in the world. The old Royal Danish Theatre dating from 1748 still works as a supplementary opera scene. The Royal Danish Theatre is also home to the Royal Danish Ballet. Founded in 1748 along with the theatre, it is one of the oldest ballet troupes in Europe. It is home to the Bournonville style of ballet.

Copenhagen has a significant jazz scene that has existed for many years. It developed when a number of American  jazz musicians such as Ben Webster, Thad Jones, Richard Boone, Ernie Wilkins, Kenny Drew, Ed Thigpen, Bob Rockwell, Dexter Gordon, and others such as rock guitarist Link Wray came to live in Copenhagen during the 1960s. Every year in early July Copenhagen s streets, squares and parks fill up with big and small jazz concerts during the Copenhagen Jazz Festival (see yearly events). The most important venue for rhythmical music in Copenhagen is Vega in Vesterbro district which has been chosen as "best concert venue in Europe" by international music magazine Live

For free entertainment one can stroll along Strøget, especially between Nytorv and Højbro Plads, which in the late afternoon and evening is a bit like an impromptu three-ring circus with musicians, magicians, jugglers and other street performers.

Copenhagen is a major regional center of culture, business, media, and science. In 2008 Copenhagen was ranked #4 by Financial Times-owned FDi magazine on their list of Top50 European Cities of the Future after London, Paris and Berlin. In the 2008 Worldwide Centers of Commerce Index, published by MasterCard, Copenhagen was ranked 14th in the world and 1st in Scandinavia. In the The 2008 Global Cities Index, Copenhagen was ranked 36th in the world, 15th in Europe, and 2nd in Scandinavia. 

Life science, information technology and shipping are important sectors and research & development plays a major role in the city’s economy. Its strategic location and excellent infrastructure with the largest airport in Scandinavia located 14 minutes by train from the city centre, has made it a regional hub and a popular location for regional headquarters as well as conventions. With around 2.7 million inhabitants within a 50 km radius, Copenhagen is one of the most densely populated areas in Northern Europe. Copenhagen region ranks 3rd in Western Europe and 1st in the Nordic countries for attracting head offices.

Copenhagen has repeatedly been recognized as one of the cities with the best quality of life and in 2008 it was singled out as the Most Liveable City in the World by international lifestyle magazine Monocle on their Top 25 Most Liveable Cities 2008 list. It is also considered one of the world’s most environmentally friendly cities with the water in the inner harbor being so clean that it can be used for swimming and 36% of all citizens commuting to work by bicycle, every day bicycling a total of 1.1 million km. Since the turn of the millennium Copenhagen has seen a strong urban and cultural development and has been described as a boom town. This is partly due to massive investments in cultural facilities as well as infrastructure and a new wave of successful designers, chefs and architects. Travellers have voted Copenhagen the cleanest city in Europe.

From its humble origins as a fishing village to its heyday as the glittering capital of the Danish Empire, to its current position as one of the world’s premier design capitals, the stories and characters of Copenhagen’s history can be discovered in its sumptuous palaces, copper-roofed town houses and atmospheric cobbled squares. From the Viking Age there was a fishing village by the name of “Havn” (harbour) at the site. Recent archeological finds indicate that by the 11th century, Copenhagen had already grown into a small town with a large estate, a church, a market, at least two wells and many smaller habitations spread over a fairly wide area.[20] Many historians believes that the town dates back to the late Viking ages and possible founded by Sweyn I Forkbeard. From the middle of the 12th century it grew in importance after coming into the possession of the Bishop Absalon, who fortified it in 1167, the year traditionally marking the foundation of Copenhagen. The excellent harbour encouraged Copenhagen’s growth until it became an important centre of commerce.

The city’s origin as a harbour and a place of commerce is reflected in its name. Its original designation, from which the contemporary Danish name is derived, was Køpmannæhafn, “merchants’ harbour”. The English name for the city is derived from its Low German name, Kopenhagen. The element hafnium is also named for Copenhagen, whose Latin name is Hafnia.

It was repeatedly attacked by the Hanseatic League as the Germans took notice. In 1254, it received its charter as a city under Bishop Jakob Erlandsen. During 1658-59 it withstood a severe siege by the Swedes under Charles X and successfully repelled a major assault. In 1801 a British fleet under Admiral Parker fought a major battle, the Battle of Copenhagen, with the Danish Navy in Copenhagen harbour. It was during this battle Lord Nelson famously “put the telescope to the blind eye” in order not to see Admiral Parker’s signal to cease fire.

When a British expeditionary force bombarded Copenhagen in 1807, to gain control of the Danish Navy, the city suffered great damage and hundreds of people were killed. The reason why the devastation was so great was that Copenhagen relied on an old defence-line rendered virtually useless by the increase in shooting range available to the British. But not until the 1850s were the ramparts of the city opened to allow new housing to be built around The Lakes (Danish: Søerne) which bordered the old defence system to the west. This dramatic increase of space was long overdue, not only because the old ramparts were out of date as a defence system, but also because of bad sanitation in the old city. Before the opening, Copenhagen Center was inhabited by approximately 125,000 people, peaking in the census of 1870 (140,000); today the figure is around 25,000. In 1901, Copenhagen expanded further, incorporating communities with 40,000 people, and in the process making Frederiksberg an enclave within Copenhagen.

During World War II, Copenhagen was occupied by German troops along with the rest of the country from 9 April 1940 until 4 May 1945. In August 1943, when the government’s collaboration with the occupation forces collapsed, several ships were sunk in Copenhagen Harbour by the Royal Danish Navy to prevent them being used by the Germans. The city has grown greatly since the war, in the seventies using the so-called five-finger-plan of commuter train lines to surrounding towns and suburbs.

Since the summer 2000, the cities of Copenhagen and Malmö have been connected by a toll bridge/tunnel (Øresund Bridge), which allows both rail and road passengers to cross. As a result, Copenhagen has become the centre of a larger metropolitan area which spans both nations. The construction of the bridge has led to a large number of changes to the public transportation system and the extensive redevelopment of Amager, south of the main city.

Copenhagen s Tivoli Gardens -- an amusement park, restaurant Mecca, and cultural hot spot all tied up together in one package -- is the city's marquee attraction. And for good reason.

It's magical.

The 160-plus-year-old park is not only an icon of history but also the place that inspired local -- and equally legendary -- writer Hans Christian Andersen to write "The Nightingale." It also inspired an even more significant revolutionary: It is said that Walt Disney got the idea to build Disneyland, his first amusement park, after visiting Tivoli Gardens.

Tivoli opened in 1843, the brainchild of Georg Carstensen who at that time was required by law to request permission from Denmark's King Christian VII to build his "romantic amusement park." His mission wasn't entirely for the greater good; according to lore, he told the king that when people were amused they were far less likely to engage in political revolt. From the beginning his concept was to create a place where local folks could enjoy music, alehouses, restaurants and amusements. That concept lives on today.

The park is located in what was originally Denmark s countryside, just outside the fortified walls of Copenhagen (which no longer exist) and along the city's moat (part of which was used to create a lake in Copenhagen Tivoli). But by the 1880's, Copenhagen had outgrown its own walls and Tivoli became part of the city.

Today, Tivoli is location -- right in the heart of the Copenhagen city, between the central rail station and city hall -- is one of its charms. After all, how many amusement parks are located in the center of an urban metropolis, even if it wasn't planned that way?

Beyond its storied history, there are many more relevant reasons for today's travelers to experience Tivoli -- and on my series of visits in August it was apparent that Danes of all ages, from families with young kids to couples in love, also consider Tivoli a worthy hangout. By day (or, at least on weekdays), Tivoli is a mellow place. By night it becomes magically transformed.

So much so that some cruise lines have incorporated late-night stays (and even overnights) in Copenhagen into cruise itineraries so passengers will have the opportunity to experience Tivoli. Ship-sponsored "tours" (generally just a shuttle service between the park and ship) are usually available, but plenty of taxis are also on hand, and park staffers speak English, so it's easy enough to explore independently.
A couple of tips:

During the summer, Tivoli typically opens at 11 a.m. and closes at midnight (later on weekends). Most of the entertainment -- concerts, Tivoli pantomime performances, etc. -- are held at night. Once you know your travel dates, you can check for more specifics about entertainment on Tivoli's Web site.

Tickets cost 85 Danish Kroner for adults, about $18 U.S. or 9.5 GBP at press time; check www.xe.net for the most recent currency exchange information. Kids under 12 get in for about half that. This price includes entrance for a full day and night and admission to regular entertainment, such as the pantomime or various music performances (but not special concerts).

What is not included? Rides require between one and four tickets (about $2.25 apiece). Also a la carte are meals, symphonic performances in the Tivoli Concert Hall Copenhagen, arcades and gambling.

Cruise lines calling in Copenhagen on a daily visit will offer tours to Tivoli that basically include transportation (a motorcoach shuttle) and the basic admission fee (Celebrity's is priced at $20 per person, for example; Holland America charges $29). But Tivoli is fairly easy to reach independently, and is a pleasant walk from downtown. From the ship's dock, it's a 10-minute taxi ride (and taxis are plentiful to return you to the pier).

As a result of spending a day, a night, and then another day (I'm mesmerized), plus a return visit in summer 2008 in Tivoli Gardens, here are 10 reasons why you simply must visit.

1. Feel Like A Kid Again

One of the first things you'll see when you enter the park is the historic, 19th-century Pantomime Theater, whimsically decorated in an Oriental style (when the park was designed, Oriental themes were wildly popular in Copenhagen). You'll walk down sandy pathways toward funky fountains (in one there's a bubbling water-in-tubes display) and lush gardens of wild roses along with much flora and fauna. There are twinkling lights (even during the day) and sidewalk cafes -- and puppeteers performing and dancers twirling. I suddenly felt as free and deliriously energetic as I had at the age of 6 -- and all before I even got to the arcade and amusement park rides!

2.Tivoli's Location

Despite its lofty reputation and central location, you could walk by the outside of the park and never know this it's there! I'll grant that it doesn't look too enticing from the outside, surrounded as it is by urban mini-skyscrapers of sorts and stubby hotels (not to mention the quite unromantic Hard Rock Café, which sits on a corner of the property). But don't let that dissuade you. And once you walk through the gates -- you're transported to another world.

3. The Demon and Other Rides

The park may be historic – and indeed features rides, like the merry-go-round, that are odes to tradition – but the Demon (Daemonen in Danish) is purely contemporary. Let's put it this way: Speeds register as fast as 80 kilometers as the cars shoot through three loops on a Denmark's highest full-circuit roller coaster. It's floorless so there is no brace for your feet. And you will be flipped upside down at least twice. Intrigued? It's not the only ride (and we paraphrase from Tivoli's Web site) that "will turn you upside down, throw you around, or drop you from a great height." Thrill seekers should also check out The Golden Tower (Det Gyldne Tarn); it's 63 meters high and exerts minus 1G-force as it descends from the golden cupola at the top to the ground below (and then rises again, in a series of bungee jumping-like moves).

Most of the people who got off after a ride on Dragon (Dragen), which swings you vertically, horizontally and flips you upside down, seemed exhilarated by the experience -- but a couple of women collapsed into the arms of friends, weeping in terror. Consider yourself warned.

For young kids, there are plenty of options as well; the Nautilus, new in 2008, is a virtual reality ride that takes travelers below sea level; there's also a classic Ferris wheel, dragon boats and more. And the park has even maintained its traditional roller coaster, a wooden ride that requires workers to sit in the last car to actively brake when it goes too fast.

7. Illuminations

At night, with all lit up, the park is at its most magical -- and if you can keep eyes prised until midnight, there's an evening fireworks display.

8. Cultural Arts

The Tivoli Concert Hall is the hub of the park's cultural scene and offers a huge range of options, depending on the timing of your visit (try to secure tickets in advance). In 2008, it served as a summer home to the New York City Ballet, hosted the annual international piano competition, welcomed soloists ranging from vocalists to pianists, and offered chamber music concerts.

The structure itself, built in 1956, is oddly gaudy from the front, with varied-colored panels. It's a strange look but you can't miss it! A refurbishment in 2005 incorporated an aquarium into a new foyer; to tour it requires a separate fee (and you don't have to stay for a concert!).


9. Shopping

While by no means would we suggest bypassing Stroget, Stockholm s mercantile hubbub, to browse at Tivoli, there are still some nice boutiques at the park selling touristy but fun souvenirs, like Scandinavian giftware and teddy bears. However, one boutique that is simply not to be missed is Illums Bolighus. The Denmark design chain (it has bigger stores in other locations in Copenhagen) offers representative wares from all the fantastic Scandinavian and Nordic designers, including Finland's Iittala, Sweden's Orrefors, Denmark's Minima -- and many more!

10. Christmas Market

Though Tivoli is best known as a summer playground, it's also open at Christmastime, and is even more festive during December. It's ablaze in lights all day, seasonal decorations abound and a full-fledged Christmas market sells all manner of tchotchkes. Interestingly, in the past few years, cruise lines like the U.K.'s P&O and Cunard have been offering a handful of seasonal cruises to Scandinavian market cities in December.

Ultimately, we're not saying that you should bypass Copenhagen's fine historic attractions to while away the day at Tivoli (or are we?) -- it's just that I can't think of a more delightful way to spend a day or evening.

And here's a tip: If you are embarking or debarking your cruise in Copenhagen, it's a great place to pass a few quiet hours (the city's central rail station, which not only has a quick train to the airport but also will store luggage for a fee, happens to be right across the street!).

What do you love best about Tivoli? Or, if you haven't been, why can't you wait to go? Tell me at editor@smilingglobe.com.

The short story about Tivoli Copenhagen Denmark
From the very start, Tivoli included a variety of attractions: buildings in the exotic style of an imaginary Orient: a theatre, band stands, restaurants and cafés, flower gardens, and mechanical amusement rides such as a merry-go-round and a primitive scenic railway. After dark, colored lamps illuminated the gardens. On certain evenings, specially designed fireworks could be seen reflected in Tivoli's lake.

Composer Hans Christian Lumbye (b. 1810 - d. 1874) was Tivoli 's musical director from 1843 to 1872. Lumbye was inspired by Viennese waltz composers like the Strauss family (Johann Strauss I and his sons), and became known as the "Strauss of the North." Many of his compositions are specifically inspired by the Tivoli gardens, including "Salute to the Ticket Holders of Tivoli , "Carnival Joys" and "A Festive Night at Tivoli ". The Tivoli Symphony Orchestra still performs many of his works.

In 1874, Chinese style Pantomimeteatret (The Tivoli Pantomime Theatre) took the place of an older smaller theater. The audience stands in the open, the stage being inside the building. The Tivoli theatre's "curtain" is a mechanical peacock's tail. From the very beginning, the Theater was the home of Italian pantomimes, introduced in Denmark by the Italian Giuseppe Casorti. This tradition, which is dependent on the Italian Commedia dell'Arte has been kept alive, including the characters Cassander (the old father), Columbine (his beautiful daughter), Harlequin (her lover), and, especially popular with the youngest spectators, the stupid servant Pierrot. The absence of spoken dialogue is an advantage, as Tivoli is now an international tourist attraction.

In 1943, Nazi sympathizers attempted to break the Danish people's spirit by burning many of Tivoli's buildings, including the concert hall, to the ground. Undaunted, the Danes built temporary buildings, and the park was back in operation after a few weeks.

Tivoli is always evolving without abandoning its original charm or traditions. As Georg Carstensen said in 1844, "Tivoli will never, so to speak, be finished," a sentiment echoed just over a century later when Walt Disney said of his own Tivoli-inspired theme park, "Disneyland will never be finished as long as there is imagination left in the world."